Dating vintage talon zippers
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Vintage Tooled Leather Handbag with Metal Talon Zippers
A zipper , zip , fly , or zip fastener , formerly known as a clasp locker , is a commonly used device for binding the edges of an opening of fabric or other flexible material, such as on a garment or a bag. It is used in clothing e. Zippers come in all different sizes, shapes, and colors. Whitcomb L. Judson , who was an American inventor from Chicago, is sometimes given credit as the inventor of the zipper, but he never made a practical device.
The method, still in use today, is based on interlocking teeth. These teeth can be either individual or shaped from a continuous coil, and are also referred to as elements. Inside the slider is a Y-shaped channel that meshes together or separates the opposing rows of teeth, depending on the direction of the slider's movement. The word Zipper is onomatopoetic , because it was named for the sound the device makes when used, a high-pitched zip.
In many jackets and similar garments, the opening is closed completely when the slider is at the top end. Some jackets have double-separating zippers with two sliders on the tape. When the sliders are on opposite ends of the tape then the jacket is closed. If the lower slider is raised then the bottom part of the jacket may be opened to allow more comfortable sitting or bicycling. When both sliders are lowered then the zipper may be totally separated.
Bags, suitcases and other pieces of luggage also often feature two sliders on the tape: When the two sliders are located next to each other, which can be at any point along the tape, the zipper is fully closed. These variations are achieved by sewing one end of the zipper together, sewing both ends together, or allowing both ends of the zipper to fall completely apart. A zipper costs relatively little, but if it fails, the garment may be unusable until the zipper is repaired or replaced—which can be quite difficult and expensive.
Problems often lie with the zipper slider; when it becomes worn it does not properly align and join the alternating teeth. With separating zippers, the insertion pin may tear loose from the tape; the tape may even disintegrate from use. If a zipper fails, it can either jam i. He did not try seriously to market it, missing recognition he might otherwise have received. Forty-two years later, in Whitcomb Judson , who invented a pneumatic street railway, marketed a "Clasp Locker".
The device served as a more complicated hook-and-eye shoe fastener. The clasp locker had its public debut at the Chicago World's Fair and met with little commercial success. Gideon Sundback , a Swedish -American electrical engineer , was hired to work for the company in Good technical skills and a marriage to the plant-manager's daughter Elvira Aronson led Sundback to the position of head designer. The company moved to Meadville, Pennsylvania, where it operated for most of the 20th century under the name Talon, Inc.
Sundback worked on improving the fastener and in he registered a patent in Germany. Catharines, Ontario. Sundback's work with this firm has led to the common misperception that he was Canadian and that the zipper originated in that country. Gideon Sundback increased the number of fastening elements from four per inch about one every 6. The patent for the "Separable Fastener" was issued in Gideon Sundback also created the manufacturing machine for the new device.
The "S-L" or "scrapless" machine took a special Y-shaped wire and cut scoops from it, then punched the scoop dimple and nib, and clamped each scoop on a cloth tape to produce a continuous zipper chain. Within the first year of operation, Sundback's machinery was producing a few hundred feet around meters of fastener per day. In during a trip to Europe Sundback sold his European rights to Martin Othmar Winterhalter  who improved the design by using ribs and grooves instead of Sundback's joints and jaws   and started producing with his Riri-company on large scale first in Germany, then in Switzerland.
Goodrich Company in The company opted to use Gideon Sundback's fastener on a new type of rubber boots or galoshes and referred to it as the zipper, and the name stuck. The two chief uses of the zipper in its early years were for closing boots and tobacco pouches. Zippers began being used for clothing in by Schott NYC on leather jackets.
In the s, a sales campaign began for children's clothing featuring zippers. The campaign praised zippers for promoting self-reliance in young children by making it possible for them to dress in self-help clothing. The zipper beat the button in in the "Battle of the Fly", after French fashion designers raved over zippers in men's trousers.
Esquire declared the zipper the "Newest Tailoring Idea for Men" and among the zippered fly's many virtues was that it would exclude "The Possibility of Unintentional and Embarrassing Disarray. The most recent innovation [ citation needed ] in the zipper's design was the introduction of models that could open on both ends, as on jackets.
Today the zipper is by far the most widespread fastener, and is used on clothing, luggage, leather goods, and various other objects. Airtight zippers were first developed by NASA for making high-altitude pressure suits and later space suits , capable of retaining air pressure inside the suit in the vacuum of space.
The airtight zipper is built like a standard toothed zipper, but with a waterproof sheeting which is made of fabric-reinforced polyethylene and is bonded to the rest of the suit wrapped around the outside of each row of zipper teeth. When the zipper is closed, the two facing sides of the plastic sheeting are squeezed tightly against one another between the C-shaped clips both above and below the zipper teeth, forming a double seal.
This double-mated surface is good at retaining both vacuum and pressure, but the fit must be very tight, to press the surfaces together firmly. Consequently, these zippers are typically very stiff when zipped shut and have minimal flex or stretch. They are hard to open and close because the zipper anvil must bend apart teeth that are being held under tension. They can also be derailed and damage the sealing surfaces if the teeth are misaligned while straining to pull the zipper shut.
These zippers are very common where airtight or watertight seals are needed, such as on scuba diving dry suits , ocean survival suits , and hazmat suits. A less common water-resistant zipper is similar in construction to a standard toothed zipper, but includes a molded plastic ridge seal similar to the mating surfaces on a ziploc bag. Such a zipper is easier to open and close than a clipped version, and the slider has a gap above the zipper teeth for separating the ridge seal.
This seal is structurally weak against internal pressure, and can be separated by pressure within the sealed container pushing outward on the ridges, which simply flex and spread apart, potentially allowing air or liquid entry through the spread-open ridges. Ridge-sealed zippers are sometimes used on lower-cost surface dry suits. Some zippers include a designed ability for the slider to hold in a steady open or closed position, resisting forces that would try to move the slider and open the zipper unexpectedly.
There are two common ways this is accomplished:. The zipper handle can have a short protruding pin stamped into it, which inserts between the zipper teeth through a hole on the slider, when the handle is folded down flat against the zipper teeth. This appears on some brands of trousers. The handle of the fly zipper is folded flat against the teeth when it is not in use, and the handle is held down by both slider hinge tension and the fabric flap over the fly.
The slider can also have a two-piece hinge assembly attaching the handle to the slider, with the base of the hinge under spring tension and with protruding pins on the bottom that insert between the zipper teeth. To move the zipper, the handle is pulled outward against spring tension, lifting the pins out from between the teeth as the slider moves.
When the handle is released the pins automatically engage between the zipper teeth again. They are called "auto-lock sliders". A three-piece version of the above uses a tiny pivoting arm held under tension inside the hinge. Pulling on the handle from any direction lifts the pivoting arm's pins out of the zipper teeth so that the slider can move. Indian Tex Corp has also emerged as a significant supplier to the apparel industry.
In Europe, Cremalleras Rubi company established in in Spain , continues to compete with the big multinationals selling over 30 million zippers in In , The Guardian reported that China had 80 percent of the international market. Most of its product is made in Qiaotou, Yongjia County. From U. Patent 1,, , the following mechanism of the zipper improved by Gideon Sundback in is explained:. The locking members are all alike, and therefore interchangeable, and in general form consist of contractible jaw portions which are clamped upon the tape and projecting locking portions of elongated cup shape, so that the outside of one member nests within the recess of an adjoining member when in locked relation.
Consequently, it will be seen that the members on one stringer alternate with those on the other, so that when the sliding operating device is moved back and forth, the locking members will be engaged and disengaged according to the direction of movement. A further feature of the invention resides in the shape and configuration of the locking members Thereby, a snug fit is obtained and at the same time ample provision is given for movement of one on the other without coming out when the fastener is flexed transversely.
At the same time this construction gives facility for relative longitudinal movement, without disengagement. The zipper is analogous in function to a drawstring , but different in mechanism. A draw string works by tension in the string drawing together the eyelets of the piece together because the tension acts to straighten the string and so forces the eyelets toward a line. The zipper works by an elastic , that is, reversible, deformation of the "locking members" teeth.
The zipper teeth are shaped and sized so that the forces which act on the zipper when the garment it is sewn on is worn cannot unlock the teeth. The slider constrains the teeth positions, moves them along a given path, and acts on the teeth one-by-one in its "Y-shaped channel" and so can reversibly lock and unlock them. This is a lock and key design.
In Sundback's invention the teeth are symmetric with "exterior and interior rounded surfaces" that are "elongated transversely". The teeth have a material part "external projection" and a space "internal recess". The material part of one tooth is slightly smaller than the space on the other and so shaped to act as a "contractible jaw"--the jaw is elastically opened and then closed as it goes over the other tooth. The "snug fit" that results when "one member nests within the recess of an adjoining member" is a stable locked state.
The maximum force when the slider operates is in between the unlocked and locked positions, giving two stable mechanical equilibria. The "snug fit" is stable not only to forces from wear that act in the same direction as those of the slider but to transverse and longitudinal both perpendicular forces. The zipper is analogous in mechanism to a bobby pin , where the person's hand slides hair into and out of the pin's "contractible jaw". Zippers have entered into urban legends.
American folklorist Jan Brunvand noted that "The zipper has been the subject of jokes and legends since Those stories reflect "modern anxieties and desires", emphasizing embarrassments and accidents, primarily involving the flies of men's trousers in stories such as "The Unzipped Stranger" and "The Unzipped Fly". The zipper is often the least durable component in any garment or type of equipment.
Most often the zipper fails to close due to a worn or bent slider not being able to apply the necessary force to the sides of the teeth to cause them to interlock.
s hookless zipper front pullover Hudson's Bay jacketIn "Jackets". s Belt back double breasted mackinawIn "Coats". Early s. Talon Zipper Identification for Vintage - Modern Clothing. Help dating this mens vintage coat. Vintage .. Vintage tag dating Express, Dry cleaning methods.
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Butterick, which published Delineato r, also sold dress pattern , which used several zippers.
Here are some quick, easy-to-remember tips. YKK — Japan, since Talon Zippers — U.
A Guide to dating Talon Zippers (updated and revised)
One of the long-standing debates in clothing history is when was the nylon coil zipper introduced. When I took my first formal sewing class in , our sewing teacher advised us not to use a nylon zipper as they were not as reliable as the metal ones. So even by that late date, the nylon zipper had not been completely accepted. And that is what makes using the zipper type a bit tricky when it comes to dating a garment. Throughout the 60s garments were being made using either. Even in the s many home sewers were using metal zippers.
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Discussion in ' Outerwear ' started by Dinerman , Oct 26, Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds New Posts Classifieds. The Fedora Lounge. Thread galleries are live! Please let us know what you think of them in the thread in the Observation Bar. Oct 26, 1. How to help date your jacket and other items based on their zippers, s-present. Guides for dating the pull, the stop box, the slider and the top-stops.
Share best practices, tips, and insights.
A zipper , zip , fly , or zip fastener , formerly known as a clasp locker , is a commonly used device for binding the edges of an opening of fabric or other flexible material, such as on a garment or a bag. It is used in clothing e. Zippers come in all different sizes, shapes, and colors.
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And probably most of them had one. Although this article is about jackets, it is not about the history of motorcycle leathers or their prices. I assume here, of course, that a vintage machine is best matched by a vintage jacket. So, with that in mind and with due respect for personal preferences and all new quality jacket makers of today, I must rephrase my opening line. Vintage is…well, vintage. Which begs another interesting question. Is it because they are themselves aware of what the buying public already knows, which is that the vintage jackets are considered better, and that perhaps neither skills nor materials can be found today that could produce a superior jacket? Here is only a partial list of the better known brand names: They were very similar in design and were for the majority part made of steer hide. Here is a classic example:.
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A guide to dating Talon Zippers
These days, zippers are so commonplace on clothing that they largely go unnoticed—until they stop working that is. Few realize how much of a breakthrough they were roughly a century ago, and how they changed the construction of not only clothing, but also luggage, camping gear, and sporting goods in general. Now popular in repro garments, Talon zippers originally started under a different name entirely. Unfortunately for him and unknowing consumers, it was a bit of a dud. While the idea was there, the marketing and practicality was not, and the zipper failed to catch on. Goodrich Company , who invented the term to advertise its use on their rubber boots. The names quickly became synonymous, and it began to appear on tobacco pouches and boots across the country, but it took another 20 years for the garment industry to adapt the zipper for use on jeans, jackets, and trousers.
Dating vintage talon zippers
Discussion in ' Vintage ' started by taikonaut , Apr 22, Log in or Sign up. Vintage Leather Jackets Forum. Hi All, I am curious about Talon zips variation and could it reflect the date and time span of production. I have found this detail from Acme website but would be grateful if anyone could add the date to the following? From ACME website Early Talon zips, found on pre-war jackets, had a wide bell-shaped puller with a full-circle cutout, and attached to the slider with a simple rolled hook.
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Labels Look for union labels in the garment, and match against this resource from the Vintage Fashion Guild. In the s, care labels are introduced and used. If you are curious about a label in particular, check the Label Resource at the Vintage Fashion Guild , which may help. It can also help to search Etsy or eBay for the brand, as some sellers will upload a photo of the label. Also, look to see where it was made, if it says origin labels became mandatory in the s. There are two types of rayon — filament, which looks like silk, and spun, which resembles cotton or linen. This s dress is spun rayon.
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